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Post by andyma61 on Jul 5, 2013 21:19:10 GMT
Hi guys,i have managed to spend the afternoon tinkering in the glorious sunshine trying to sort out the possible airlock after the rebuild,i drained the system,flushed through the heater matrix,flushed the engine using garden hose from the back of engine,then filled up the block as advised from the rear of engine and the heater matrix,then the rad.i ran the engine up to temp and left running for about 15 mins,the temp stayed bang in the middle,the top rad hose and the rad did get hot but i am still lacking heat from the heater.If squeezing top rad hose should i feel a rush of coolant because i couldn't,could the after market water pump be not up to scratch or could i still have an air lock.I feel i have been making progress but not quite there yet.Look forward to some more invaluable advice. Andy.
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Post by Uncle Bob on Jul 6, 2013 17:03:04 GMT
Hi Andy, sounds like the engine is getting circulation now, I guess a roadtest would put it to the test but you don't say if the car on the road yet. As to the heater matrix, when you put the garden hose done the heater pipe , did it rush out the other end with good flow ? Can you test the brass water valve works at the back top of engine bay. Not heard any problems with the 2.8 water pumps, the 3.0 can just have a rust lump on the end of the spindle. As part of my rebuilt I had the pump off to check it, easy done if you have a spare pump gasket but a pain if you don't.
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Post by andyma61 on Jul 6, 2013 21:09:35 GMT
Hi Bob,thanks for post.I think you may be right in that a run would be good but i am a little way off that yet,i still need to bleed the brakes and reassemble the front end.The matrix did flush thru' at a good rate and i am pretty sure the valve works fine.This evening i topped up rad and ran engine again,the inlet and outlet heater water pipes both got hot and i suppose i would describe the heater as blowing lukewarm,there is certainly a difference between the hot and cold settings. regards,Andy
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